Introduction

Fraud is something I have been doing for many years, even before internet fraud

was a thing. So it is safe to say I have a vast knowledge and experience in this

business. I have written this tutorial with the intention of helping beginners and

even advanced fraudsters take their operations to the absolute next level. I have

included most if not all of my knowledge from this part of the business in this

guide. For many of you who have read my previous tutorials, I’m sure you are

already familiar with my tendency to go much in-depth over everything and I plan

on keeping that same level of quality on this tutorial as well. This guide is amazing

for advanced fraudsters who want to make a lot more money. Beginners who are

just starting out in the online fraud business will also find this guide extremely

helpful to kickstart their journey as many of the things I will go over are used every

single day during different fraud operations and will be valid for many years to

come. I recommend you DO NOT skip any chapters of this guide, even if you are

already familiar with the topic being discussed. Every chapter has its own equal

importance and skipping chapters are for lazy people who do not want to learn. If

you do not learn in this business, you WILL fail. Success requires patience and

perseverance so keep that in mind.

Fraud Dictionary

FULLZ: This is someone’s entire data cluster and it’s what is used to create bank

drop accounts, and for setting up payment processors on fake online stores. This

could also be used for many different things such as conducting an ATO (Account-

Take-Over) on someone’s bank account, opening new lines of credit under their

name, and much more. Fullz are extremely valuable information to us and in fact a

NECESSITY to be able to open bank drops. Fullz usually comprise of Background

Checks, Credit Reports, Credit Scores, Full Names, Addresses, Social Security

Number (SSN), Date of Birth (DOB), Driver’s License Numbers, and more.

                                                              1

CVV: This can either be someone’s full credit card details, or someone’s full debit

card details. CVV is simply a fraud slang for credit/debit card details, there’s not

much to it. We can use these details to “card” information on someone online,

such as background or credit reports that can be used for various purposes such as

opening bank drops and conducting an ATO (Account-Take-Over) on the victim’s

bank account, or we can use these CVV details to order physical/digital products

that will be sent to a drop address.

CVV DUMPS: A credit card dump, is an unauthorized digital copy of all the

information contained in the magnetic strip of an active credit card, created with

the intention of illegally making a fake credit card that can be used by

cybercriminals to make purchases. Credit card dumps are used by fraudsters to

capture valuable card data such as the card number and expiration date. These can

be obtained in a number of ways. The most popular method nowadays is

“skimming”, a process in which an illegal card reader is used to copy the data from

a credit card. Other methods include hacking into a retailer’s network or when a

malware-infected point-of-sale device is unwittingly used by a retailer, sending the

information to the criminals.

DUMPS SERVICE CODE: Many fraudsters think that there are only 2 types of

dumps, 101 and 201. The truth is there are many other types of dumps. Carders

usually work with either 101 or 201 but the majority will prefer 101. This is known

as the SERVICE CODE of a dump. The service code contains 3 characters and you

can find a dump service code just by looking at a dump, regardless of the fact if it

has both TRACK1+TRACK2 or just TRACK2. Example, let’s say we’re looking at the

dump 4256 746500930321=1402101700102054. The service code of this dump is

101, which is located right after the expiration date of the card, which in this case

is 1402 (FEB 2014). The value of the service code determines where the cards are

suitable to be used and in what way. Below is a detailed explanation of each

service code available today.

First digit (usage variables):

– 1xx: Worldwide use, usually doesn’t have a smart chip.

                                              Cashout.Guide                  2

– 2xx: Worldwide use, does have a smart chip and required to use smart chip if the

card reader reads the chip

– 5xx: National use, a list of regions can be allowed by the bank (often called region

locks).

– 6xx: National use, a list of regions can be allowed by the bank but required to use

smart chip if the card reader reads the chip

– 7xx: Only useable according to what has been agreed with the bank

Second digit (authorization)

– x0x: Normal authorization, normal usage.

– x2x: Contact issuing bank.

– x4x: Contact issuing bank, exceptions rules by bank.

Third digit (services that the card can be used for):

– xx0: Can be used for anything, require PIN.

– xx1: Can be used for anything without PIN.

– xx2: Can be used to buy goods or pay a service, cannot retrieve cash, PIN not

required.

– xx3: ATM only ,PIN required.

– xx4: Cash only, PIN not required.

– xx5: Can be used to buy goods or pay a service, cannot retrieve cash. PIN

required

– xx6: No restrictions to use, will ask for PIN when possible.

– xx7: Can be used to buy goods or pay a service, cannot retrieve cash. PIN

required when possible.

TRACK1+TRACK2 DATA: There are up to three tracks on magnetic cards known as

tracks 1, 2, and 3. Track 3 is virtually unused by the major worldwide networks,

and often isn’t even physically present on the card by virtue of a narrower

magnetic stripe. Point-of-sale card readers almost always read track 1, or track 2,

and sometimes both, in case one track is unreadable. The minimum cardholder

account information needed to complete a transaction is present on both tracks.

Track 1 has a higher bit density, is the only track that may contain alphabetic text,

                                              Cashout.Guide                  3

and hence is the only track that contains the cardholder’s name. The information

on track 1 on financial cards is contained in several formats that goes from A to M.

The “A” is only used by the bank itself, so we do not need to pay much attention to

1. The “B” is where the holder’s financial information is stored, the most

important section of the magnetic stripe. C to M, is used for the ANSI

Subcommittee X3B10, and N to Z is the information that is available for use of

individual card issuers. This is how the track 1 looks like.

%B5XXXXXXXXXXXXXX2^GEORGENULL/MAX^110310100000000100000000300000

0?;

• % for Start Sentinel
• B for Bank Type Credit Card
• 5XXXXXXXXXXXXXX2 is the Primary Account Number, which in most cases is

    the number printed on the front of the card, but not always.

• ^ is the separator
• GEORGENULL is the card holder’s last name
• / is the separator
• MAX is the card holder’s first name
• ^ another separator
• 11 expiration year, 03 expiration month
• 101 SERVICE CODE
• 0000000010000000003000000 is the discretionary data
• ? is the end

So now that you’ve seen the information that is stored in track 1 and the letter

containers, you should have already figured out that credit card dumps are mainly

the first 2 tracks.

Track 2 data is used by ATMs, physical payment processors and in any online

website. There are a lot of components in this track, the layout is shown below.

                                             Cashout.Guide                   4

| START SENTINEL | PRIMARY ACCOUNT NUMBER | FIELD SEPARATOR |

ADDITIONAL DATA | END SENTINEL | LONGITUDE REDUNDANCY CHECK |

With a more in-depth examination of the data, you can see how a credit card

number and holder’s main information is stored into the track 2 data.

5XXXXXXXXXXXXXX2=1103200XXXX00000000?* ^^ ^^ ^ ^ ^^ ||_ CARD NUMBER

|| | |_ ENCRYPTED||_ LRC |_ START SENTINEL|| | PIN*** |_ END SENTINEL || |_

SERVICE CODE FIELD SEPARATOR _||_ EXPIRATION

Now let’s break it down.

• ; : Start Sentinel
• 5XXXXXXXXXXXXXX2: Primary account number, the PAN. This would be the

    credit card number you always see printed on the front of the plastic.

• 1103: Expiry Date. Always year first then month.
• 200: Service code.
• XXXX00000000: Discretionary data, which includes the PIN verification, the

    card verification value and the last 3 digits on the back of the card aka the

    CSC/CVV2 code.

• ?: The End Sentinel
• With ^^ ^^ ^ ^ ^^ begins the track 3 data, which as said previously is

    completely useless.

Most carders and hackers, will only seek out the TR1 and TR2 data. That’s where

the term CVV dumps comes from.

WEB/ONLINE WALLETS: This is a program or web service that allows users to store

and control their online shopping information, like logins, passwords, shipping

address and credit card/bank details, in one central place. It also provides a

convenient and technologically quick method for consumers to purchase products

from any person or store across the globe. Such examples of web wallets are

PayPal, Google Wallet, and Venmo. We can use such wallets for many purposes

that will be discussed in further guides.

                                            Cashout.Guide                     5

SKIMMER: This is a device made to be affixed to the mouth of an ATM and secretly

swipe credit and debit card information when bank customers slip their cards into

the machines to pull out money. Skimmers have been around for years, of course,

but fraudsters are constantly improving them. Card skimming accounts for more

than 80 percent of ATM fraud. Some sophisticated skimmers are even able to

transmit stolen data via text message.

EMBOSSER: A device that stamps the cards to produce the raised lettering where

the CVV holder’s name is, card number, etc…

TIPPER: A device that adds the gold/silver accents to the embossed characters.

MSR (MAGNETIC STRIPE READER/WRITER): Used by fraudsters to write dumps

into actual physical blank cards or gift cards (and driver’s licenses, student IDs,

etc..). If you want to use blank white cards, you will need a printer for the card

template, embosser and tipper, which can be pretty expensive, however it is worth

it if you know how to correctly use these things.

POS (POINT-OF-SALE) SYSTEM: This is the time and place where a retail

transaction is completed. At the point of sale, the merchant calculates the amount

owed by the customer, indicates that amount, may prepare an invoice for the

customer (which may be a cash register printout), and indicates the options for the

customer to make payment. It is also the point at which a customer makes a

payment to the merchant in exchange for goods or after provision of a service.

After receiving payment, the merchant may issue a receipt for the transaction.

ACH: This stands for Automated Clearing House, which is an electronic network for

financial transactions in the United States. ACH processes large volumes of credit

and debit transactions in batches. ACH credit transfers include direct deposit,

payroll and vendor payments. Moving money and information from one bank

account to another is done through Direct Deposit or via ACH transactions, credit

or debit. This is used a lot by fraudsters to siphon money out of the bank accounts

of unsuspecting victims, which is extremely easy.

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PAYMENT PROCESSORS: A payment processor is a company (often a third party)

appointed by a merchant to handle transactions from various channels such as

credit cards and debit cards for merchant acquiring banks. They are usually broken

down into two types: front-end and back-end. Front-end processors have

connections to various card associations and supply authorization and settlement

services to the merchant banks’ merchants. Back-end processors accept

settlements from front-end processors and, via The Federal Reserve Bank for

example, move the money from the issuing bank to the merchant bank. In an

operation that will usually take a few seconds, the payment processor will both

check the details received by forwarding them to the respective card’s issuing bank

or card association for verification, and also carry out a series of anti-fraud

measures against the transaction. Additional paraments, including the card’s

country of issue and its previous payment history, are also used to gauge the

probability of the transaction being approved. Once the payment processor has

received confirmation that the credit card details have been verified, the

information will be relayed back via the payment gateway to the merchant, who

will then complete the payment transaction. If verification is denied by the card

association, the payment processor will relay the information to the merchant,

who will then decline the transaction. Such examples of payment processors are

Square, PayPal, Stripe and Flint

PAYMENT GATEWAYS: This is a merchant service provided by an e-commerce

website that authorizes credit card or direct payments processing for e-businesses,

online retailers, or traditional brick and mortar stores. The payment gateway may

be provided by a bank to its customers but can be provided by a specialized

financial service provider as a separate service. It facilitates a payment transaction

by the transfer of information between a payment portal (such as a website,

mobile phone or interactive voice response service) and the front-end processor or

acquiring bank. Here’s how a typical transaction plays out.

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1. A customer places an order on a website by pressing the “Submit Order” or

   equivalent button, or perhaps enters their card details using an automatic

   phone answering service.

2. If the order is via a website, the customer’s web browser encrypts the

   information to be sent between the browser and the merchant’s webserver.

   In between other methods, this may be done via SSL encryption. The

   payment gateway may allot transaction data to be sent directly from the

   customer’s browser to the gateway, bypassing the merchant’s systems. This

   reduces the merchant’s Payment Card Industry Data Security Standard

   compliance obligations without redirecting the customer away from the

   website.

3. The merchant then forwards the transaction details to their payment

   gateway.

4. The payment gateway converts the message from XML to ISO 8583 or a

   variant message format and then forwards the transaction information to the

   payment processor used by the merchant’s acquiring bank.

5. The payment processor forwards the transaction information to the card

   association (e.g. Visa/Mastercard/AMEX). If an American Express or Discover

   Card was used, then the card association also acts as the issuing bank and

   directly provides a response of approved or declined to the payment

   gateway. Otherwise, the card association routes the transaction to the

   correct card issuing bank.

6. The credit card issuing bank receives the authorization request, verifies the

   credit or debit available and then sends a response back to the processor

   with a response code (approved or denied). In addition to communicating

   the fate of the authorization request, the response code is also used to

   define the reason why the transaction failed (e.g. insufficient funds, or bank

   link not available). Meanwhile, the credit card issuer holds an authorization

   associated with that merchant and consumer for the approved amount. This

   can impact the consumer’s ability to spend further (because it reduces the

   line of credit available or it puts a hold on a portion of the funds in a debit

   account).

7. The processor forwards the authorization response to the payment gateway.

                                           Cashout.Guide                 8

8. The payment gateway receives the response, and forwards it on to the

     website (or whatever interface was used to process the payment) where it is

     interpreted as a relevant response then relayed back to the merchant and

     cardholder. This is known as the Authorization or “Auth”

9. This entire process typically takes 2-3 seconds.

WEB DOMAIN: This is traditionally known as the name or URL of a website and is

sometimes called the host name. The host name is a more memorable name to

stand in for the numeric, and hard to remember, IP address of a website. This

allows the website visitors to find and return to a web page more easily. It also

allows advertisers the ability to give a website a memorable name that visitors will

remember and come to, hopefully leading to conversions for the web page. The

flexibility of website domains allows several IP addresses to be linked to the same

website domain, thus giving a website several different pages while remaining at

the easily remembered address.

VIRTUAL CARDING: This is the process of purchasing physical or digital goods

online using someone else’s credit/debit card details.

PHYSICAL CARDING: This is the process of purchasing physical goods by going to

an actual physical store in-person and using pre-made credit cards with dumps

punched in them to conduct the fraudulent transactions. Transactions are also

possible to be conducted with an Android phone using NFC payments with

TR1+TR2 data.

CARDING: Term used when referring to using someone else’s CVV details to

conduct a fraudulent purchase on an online website or physically in person in a

store using DUMPS. Example, we can CARD a cellphone using someone else’s

details through Amazon, or CARD a $400 belt at a Gucci Store using dumps that

were punched into a blank card using devices specifically made for such purposes.

CARD HOLDER: The owner of the CVV that we’re using to conduct the fraudulent

transaction.

                                             Cashout.Guide                 9

BILLING ADDRESS: An address directly attached to a CVV. This is where the card

holder’s bank sends his bills, hence the name BILLING.

SHIPPING/MAILING ADDRESS: An address used exclusively to receive mail. Most

websites do not allow transactions to be accepted if the billing address on a credit

card and the shipping address provided to the website are different.

AVS & NON-AVS: AVS stands for Address Verification System. This is a system used

to verify the address of a person claiming to own a credit card. The system will

check the billing address of the credit card provided by the user with the address

on file at the credit card company. AVS is used by mostly all merchants in the US,

Canada, and UK. Because AVS only verifies the numeric portion of the address,

certain anomalies like apartment numbers can cause false declines; however, it is

reported to be a rare occurrence. AVS verifies the numeric portions of a

cardholder’s billing address. For example, if the address is 101 Main Street,

Highland, CA 92346, United States, AVS will check 101 and 92346. Cardholders

may receive false negatives, or partial declines for AVS from e-commerce

verification systems, which may require manual overrides, voice authorization, or

reprogramming of the AVS entries by the card issuing bank. Cardholders with a

bank that does not support AVS may receive an error from Internet stores due to

lack of data. All countries besides UK, US & Canada, are NON-AVS.

VBV & NON-VBV: This is an XML-based protocol designed to be an additional

security layer for online credit and debit card transactions. VBV stands for Verified

by Visa. This is used to validate the card holder’s identity and prevent fraudulent

transactions. It works by asking for additional information either from the card

holder directly or by analyzing data behind the scenes to see if the purchase fits

the usual payment behavior. When a website and a card have Verified by Visa, a

message box pops up on screen after you have entered the Visa card details. You

are then asked to identify yourself with your Verified by Visa password or a code

sent to your phone. What you need to do at this stage varies but your bank will tell

you about the method they use and what they expect from you. If you don’t notice

                                              Cashout.Guide                10

the VBV message box appearing but instead see a revolving wheel, all the security

associated with VBV is still happening but in the background. And you don’t need

to do anything. The bank is verifying the purchase by making background checks to

see that everything is at it should be. Any Visa card that does not have the above

feature in place, is known as NON-VBV and you should ultimately look for NON-

VBV cards instead of VBV, because as you can see this verification process is a

huge hassle.

MASTERCARD SECURECODE (MCSC): MasterCard SecureCode is very much similar

to Visa’s VBV. It is a private code for a MasterCard account that gives the card

holder an additional layer of online shopping security. Only the card holder and

the financial institution know what the code is, merchants are not able to see it.

Fortunately, the majority of MasterCard cards do not have this security in place.

AMERICAN EXPRESS SAFEKEY: This is one of the least used security measures

around, and it is not even available in the United States. However, it is the same

thing as MasterCard SecureCode and Visa’s VBV.

NEAR-FIELD COMMUNICATION (NFC): NFC technology lets smartphones and other

enabled devices communicate with other devices containing an NFC tag. It is

widely used as a payment method, all you have to do is swipe your smartphone at

the checkout in any store, and most stores support NFC. Apple Pay for example,

uses NFC.

SSN: Social Security Number. This is a nine-digit number issued to U.S. citizens,

permanent residents, and temporary (working) residents in the United States.

Although its primary purpose is to track individuals for Social Security purposes,

the Social Security number has become the national identification number for

taxation and other purposes. SSN is frequently used by those involved in identity

theft, since it is interconnected with many other forms of identification, and

because people asking for it treat as an authenticator. Financial institutions

generally require an SSN to set up bank accounts, credit cards, and loans-partly

because they assume that no one except the person it was issued to knows it.

                                              Cashout.Guide                11

MMN: Mother’s Maiden Name. This is the name of someone’s mother BEFORE

they got married, that is, her name with her original family name (or “surname”),

the name she used when she was a girl and a young woman. “Maiden” here means

“unmarried woman”. So “maiden name” refers to a woman’s name when she was

still an unmarried woman. In many cultures, when a woman gets married, she

takes the family name of her husband’s family, so her name changes. Example, let

us say your mother’s name was Mary and she was born into the Smith family. Her

maiden name would be “Mary Smith”. Then, let us say, she married your father,

whose name was Tom Jones. When she married him, she became Mary Jones.

That is her married name, but her maiden name will always be Mary Smith. This is

one of the most important aspects to conducting successful transactions online for

high value products, as most banks ask this as a security question for making any

changes to the account.

DOB: Date of Birth. This is one of the most important pieces of information you

can get on your victim. The reason for that because with the date of birth, full

name and hometown, you can easily find the person’s SSN. And also because you

need this information if the bank ever asks you for it.

MAIL DROP: A mail drop is a location where you are able to freely receive illegal

products that were either carded, or drugs. You never want to use your own house

for these purposes as it will bring a lot of headache for you in the future. With a

mail drop, you can use it let’s say a month, and never show your face there again.

This will make extremely hard for any law enforcement official to track you down

and arrest you or conduct an investigation into your life.

BIN: Bank Identification Number. This is the first four to six numbers that appear

on a credit card. The bank identification number uniquely identifies the institution

issuing the card. The BIN is key in the process of matching transactions to the

issuer of the charge card. This numbering system also applies to charge cards, gift

cards, debit cards, prepaid cards and even electronic benefit cards. This numbering

system helps identify identity theft or potential security breaches by comparing

                                             Cashout.Guide                12

data, such as the address of the institution issuing the card and the address of the

cardholder. The first digit of the BIN specifies the Major Industry Identifier, such as

airline, banking or travel, and the next five digits specify the issuing institution or

bank. For example, the MII for a Visa credit card starts with a 4. The BIN helps

merchants evaluate and assess their payment card transactions. After submitting

the first four to six digits of the card, the online retailer can detect which

institution issued the customer’s card, the card brand (such as Visa or

MasterCard), the card level (such as corporate or platinum), the card type (such as

debit card or a credit card), and the issuing bank country. BINs can be check

through the websites below.

•   https://www.bincodes.com/bin-checker/
•   http://binchecker.com/
•   https://bincheck.org/
•   https://binlists.com/

PROXY SERVER: Every time you reach out to a website or connect with anyone

online, your online connection gives your computer “address” to the site/person

you’re connecting with. This is so that the other end knows how to send

information back to your computer. That address is your public IP address. IP

stands for Internet Protocol and you can check yours by going to whoer.net.

Without an IP address, you wouldn’t be able to do any Internet/online activity and

others online wouldn’t be able to reach you. It is how you connect to the world.

Your IP address comes from your Internet Service Provider (ISP). Unfortunately,

there are a lot of privacy concerns when it comes to public IP addresses such as

• Your IP address identifies where you are in the world, sometimes to the

    street level.

• It can be used by websites to block you from accessing their content.
• It ultimately ties your name and home address to your IP address, because

    someone is paying for an Internet connection at a specific location.

                                               Cashout.Guide                  13

A proxy lets you go online under a different IP address identity. You don’t change

your Internet provider; you simply get a proxy server. A proxy server is a computer

on the web that redirects your web browsing activity. Here’s what that means.

• Normally, when you type in a website name (Amazon.com or any other),

    your Internet Service Provider (ISP) makes the request for you and connects

    you with the destination-and reveals your real IP address, as mentioned

    before.

• When you use a proxy, your online requests get rerouted.
• While using a proxy, your Internet request goes from your computer to your

    ISP as usual, but then gets sent to the proxy server, and then to the

    website/destination. Along the way, the proxy uses the IP address you chose

    in your setup, masking your real IP address.

Proxy servers are commonly used by identity thieves to fake their location to the

cardholder’s billing address. The reason for that is because some websites will not

allow a transaction to be accepted, if the purchase is being made from a location

much farther away than the cardholder’s billing address.

BANK DROPS: Bank drops are bank accounts that are opened specifically for the

purpose of storing your dirty funds. Once you open them, you can decide whether

you wish to withdraw the funds directly from the account as cash by going to the

bank ATM, or possibly clean them with specific methods, and only after cleaning

them, cashing them out (my preferred method and much safer). It is important to

mention also, that all bank drop accounts, are opened ONLY with the information

of someone else (aka FULLZ), so there is absolutely no possibility of these dirty

funds ever being traced back to your real identity. To open one of these bank drop

accounts, you will usually require the person’s DOB + SSN + DL + BACKGROUND

CHECK + FULL CREDIT REPORT + MVR/DRIVING RECORD for maximum success.

                                             Cashout.Guide                14

PROXY SCORE: When it comes to fraud detection, finding proxies is a big topic.

Fraud detection begins with thinking intelligently about the IP address associated

with a transaction. Where is that IP address, and how does that location relate to

other transaction data? Whereas most IP addresses inspire confidence, those

associated with a proxy generate suspicion. As the name suggests, a proxy acts as

an intermediary, passing requests from one computer to other servers. But

although there are legitimate uses of proxies, fraudsters are well known to use

proxies. Detecting proxies comes with two challenges. The first is how to recognize

an IP address as a proxy. The second is how to distinguish a “good” proxy from a

“bad” one; since by definition, a proxy is merely an intermediary, a proxy is not

high risk in and of itself. To consider how best to address these challenges, it’s

helpful to look to the primary goal of ecommerce fraud detection: thinking

intelligently about the IP address associated with a transaction in order to assess

risk. Fraud detection uses transaction data as the basis for this thinking and risk

assessment. Using this data and analysis, they’re able to gain insight into the kind

of traffic on a particular IP address. The Proxy Score, is a summary of risk

associated with an IP address. You want this to be as low as possible (0.80 MAX).

Anything above 0.80, you should move on and look for another proxy as that will

lead to a declined transaction 70-80% of the time. You can check your proxy score

on the websites below. Ideally you want the lowest proxy score that you can find, I

have used RDPs with a proxy score of 0.01 many times.

• https://getipintel.net/
• https://www.maxmind.com/en/request-service-trial?service_minfraud=1

    (FREE TRIAL)

• xdedicvhnguh5s6k.onion (private RDP provider website, but the best one to

    check this kind of stuff, send me a PM and I will send you an invite)

FRAUD SCORE: Every online transaction is given what is called a “Fraud Score”.

This is a number ranging between 0 and 999. It gives the merchant a number from

which he can determine if a given transaction is fraudulent or not. Transactions

that are given high fraud scores (over 300), are placed under manual verification

by an agent, who will decide if they contact the cardholder or let it through. Scores

                                              Cashout.Guide                15

over 500 with auto-decline, will block the card and an agent will immediately

contact the cardholder. Some banks have different criterias but certain things that

can affect the fraud score are:

•   Comparison with the usual spending pattern of the cardholder
•   Location of the charge
•   Amount
•   Risk factor associated with the merchant

For example, a $15.56 charge in the cardholder’s local Walmart will not trigger

anything, while a purchase of $2000 on Newegg will have an extremely high fraud

score and probably auto-decline if the cardholder rarely makes purchases online.

RISK SCORE: This is a percentage given to each transaction that ranges from 0.00%

to 100.00%. The factors that determine this score are whether an IP address,

email, device and proxy used are high risk or low risk. This is determined by fraud

systems that websites have in place such as MaxMind, which establishes the

reputations of IP addresses, emails, geolocation and other parameters. This should

always be checked before purchasing an RDP. Anything above 1.00% will lead to

declined transactions most of the time.

MAC ADDRESS: Whether you work in a wired network, or a wireless one, one

thing is common for both environments. It takes both network software and

hardware (cables, routers, etc.) to transfer data from your computer to another-or

from a computer thousands of miles away to yours. In the end, to get the data you

want right to YOU, it comes down to addresses. So not surprisingly, along with an

IP address, there’s also a hardware address. Typically, it is tied to a key connection

device in your computer called the network interface card, or NIC. The NIC is

essentially a computer circuit card that makes it possible for your computer to

connect to a network. An NIC turns data into an electrical signal that can be

transmitted over the network.

                                              Cashout.Guide                  16

Every NIC has a hardware address that’s known as a MAC, for Media Access

Control. Where IP addresses are associated with TCP/IP (networking software),

MAC addresses are linked to the hardware of network adapters. A MAC address is

given to a network adapter when it is manufactured. It is hardwired or hard-coded

onto your computer’s network interface card (NIC) and is unique to it.

Unfortunately, a MAC address can be used by law enforcement in combination

with Internet Service Providers, to find someone’s true location and consequently

his identity. Further in this guide I will explain how to mitigate this risk.

VIRTUAL PRIVATE NETWORK (VPN): An essential step of conducting a successful

fraudulent transaction, is having a VPN. Most of you already know what this is, but

for those of you who don’t, VPNs are used to funnel your entire traffic to an

encrypted tunnel. This way, none of your traffic is able to be captured by your ISP

or an attacker, and consequently sniffed upon. Nor can your real location be

revealed if you are using a good and reliable VPN that prevents DNS leaks. This will

be discussed in more detail further in this guide.

RDP: Remote Desktop Protocol. This is a protocol developed my Microsoft, which

provides a user with a graphical interface to connect to another computer over a

network connection. You can for example, be using a Linux machine, and connect

to a Windows 7 RDP. RDPs are absolutely essential to conducting a successful

fraudulent transaction, especially HACKED RESIDENTIAL RDPs. The reason for that

is because these RDPs are from a REAL PERSON, with a REAL LOCATION/IP, and

REAL COMPUTER and BROWSER FINGERPRINT. They will exponentially increase

your success rate. They will also be discussed in more detail further in this guide.

SOCKS5: This is a proxy server that allows us to fake our real location. This is very

good if let’s say, we have a credit card with a billing address in Miami, we can use a

SOCKS5 near the billing address in Miami so that the website we are conducting

the fraudulent transaction in doesn’t raise our fraud score because the transaction

                                              Cashout.Guide                 17

is being conducted in another state/far away from the credit card’s billing address

as this will lead to a declined transaction most of the time.

VIRTUAL MACHINE: This is an emulation of a computer system. Virtual machines

are based on computer architectures and provide functionality of a physical

computer. They allow you to run an operating system using an app window on

your desktop that behaves like a full, separate computer. The most used software

for virtual machines are respectively, Virtual Box and VMWare. Unfortunately,

they are not as reliable as using an RDP, but they are very good to CONNECT to an

RDP, so as to leave no traces on your original computer. Windows and OS X are

still not reliable enough in the aspect of leaving no traces, as the virtual machine in

these operating systems, will leak information to the host OS, and consequently

leave a lot of illegal evidence/traces on your computer that could later be used as

potential evidence in an investigation. However, you should never let it get to that

point the first place.

 

Operations Security (OPSEC)

This is the most important aspect of being a successful fraudster. The reason for

this is because there’s no point in doing all of this, if we’re going to eventually be

caught, and have all of your assets seized by the government. Unfortunately, the

United States doesn’t take these things lightly, and they will do everything they

can to persecute cybercriminals and put them in jail, which most of the time are

given sentences of over 10 years in jail for minor offenses. They are the biggest

and most powerful nation in the entire world, and their resources are absolutely

endless. We MUST take every precaution possible to mitigate any of these risks

and to make sure our hard work will never be taken from us by such governments.

Even if you do not live in the United States, you should still very much worry about

them as they are involved in pretty much every single international issue that

occurs, especially in cybercrime cases.

                                               Cashout.Guide                 18

I have written an extensive guide over 100 pages long on just the topic of OPSEC

and creating your perfect fraud expert setup for maximum success, and security

against such adversaries, of which I am currently selling for $25 ONLY for a limited

time. If you are any serious about doing this business and following my guidance, I

HIGHLY recommend you purchase my guide and follow each and every step

outlined in it to secure yourself to the max. Remember, if you want to be a

criminal, then do your homework, or don’t be a criminal.

With that said, in this chapter I won’t go into as much detail as my OPSEC guide

goes, as there are many things to keep in mind and I wouldn’t be able to fit

everything into only one chapter, that’s the reason I made a guide specifically for

the purpose of explaining privacy and security. However, I will give you a perfect

setup in this tutorial.

First of all, I want to introduce you to the absolute best operating system available

today when it comes to security and privacy. It is called Qubes OS. This operating

system allows us to run isolated environments. It is basically a giant virtual box.

You can run different OSs in Qubes as different virtual machines. For example, we

have a virtual machine for the Whonix OS, another for Fedora, Debian, and those

are only the VMs that come pre-installed with the OS. You can install Kali Linux in

Qubes, Windows, and all kinds of different OSs. If one of these VMs ever get

compromised, we are fine. We simply delete the VM and create a new one. If you

want to learn more about the Qubes OS, then navigate to the link below, it is full

of tutorials and even videos about the OS so you can get a good look at what we’ll

be working with.

https://www.qubes-os.org/doc/

Qubes has a very small compatibility range and so will not work with most

computers unfortunately. However, if you want to become truly a professional

cyber-criminal, then I highly recommend you invest in a new computer. Don’t be

lazy or close-fisted with security, as that will lead to problems and much headache

                                              Cashout.Guide                 19

for you in the future, trust me on that. Below are the laptops I recommend, from

best (most expensive) to worst (cheapest). All of them work perfectly with the

current Qubes 4.0. All of the prices were taken from Amazon at the time of this

writing, so keep in mind, you may get cheaper, or more expensive.

LENOVO THINKPAD X1 CARBON 5TH GEN ($1845): This laptop is absolutely

amazing, and if you have money to buy it, then do it. It’s totally worth it, as it will

last you for many years to come. This was voted the best business laptop at CES

2018. The performance of this laptop is absolutely incredible and will make your

work incredibly smooth and easy. This is the laptop that I currently use and the

one I recommend to all my clients on top of every other one.

LENOVO THINKPAD T460P ($1350): Also works perfectly with Qubes 4.0 and the

performance is amazing. The one above is much better, but if you want to get this

one instead and save some money, I’d say go ahead.

LENOVO THINKPAD T450S ($530): This laptop is also very good, although the

performance of the above one is much better, this one does boast some

impressive features. You can get it on Amazon for very cheap. It comes with i7

processor, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD (you may want to upgrade the SSD). I have tested

this computer with Qubes 4.0 and it also works perfectly and smooth.

LENOVO THINKPAD X230 ($235): This is a last resort type of laptop, and you

should only get it if you’re really low on money. The performance will be terrible,

but definitely usable. Qubes 4.0 runs perfectly with it, and everything works

exactly as it should, just really slow due to the old processor and low memory. If

you’re thinking of buying this laptop, keep in mind you will most likely need to

upgrade some of the components to make it run smoothly.

BEST QUBES SETUP FOR FRAUDULENT ACTIVITIES

Having a perfect setup for your fraudulent activities, is one of the most important

aspects of being successful in this business. If you have a bad setup, you will most

                                                Cashout.Guide                  20

likely run into problems, and declined transactions on a daily basis. As I have

explained previously in this guide, Qubes OS is the absolute best operating system

for our purposes, and is the OS I use for my fraudulent activities, in fact it is THE

ONLY ONE I use. Not only will Qubes protect you to the maximum extent possible,

to ensure that LE can’t successfully uncover your real identity, but to websites, you

will look like just another shopper looking for something expensive to buy, which

in turn will make us extremely successful. Below I will outline the perfect setup for

Qubes OS. All of the setup outlined below is explained in much more detail on my

OPSEC guide, so I would highly recommend you get that one as well.

• First, we will anonymize our MAC address by following this tutorial

    (https://www.qubes-os.org/doc/anonymizing-your-mac-address/) for our

    NetVM.

• Once we have fully anonymized our MAC address, we will route our NetVM

    to the FirewallVM. From there, we will route the traffic to the VPN VM.

• Now we need to setup our VPN VM to route all traffic to the VPN tunnel and

    restrict all non-VPN connections with iptables rules. If you are running Qubes

    4.0, please follow this tutorial (https://github.com/tasket/Qubes-vpn-

    support). If you are on Qubes 3.2, follow this tutorial

    (https://www.reddit.com/r/Qubes/comments/6h4ue2/guide_setting_up_a_

    vpn_with_mullvad_on_qubes/). Feel free to send me a message if you run

    into any problems. Check everything is good and that there are no leaks in

    your connection by navigating to whoer.net and dnsleaktest.com and

    conducting tests. Even with webRTC enabled, you should have 0 leaks

    because of the iptables rules.

• Once we have setup our VPN VM, we will create another VPN VM and route

    our traffic to the 2nd VPN tunnel. This is extremely important, as it will add an

    amazing extra layer of security to your setup. You should use 2 different VPN

    providers. The ones I recommend are respectively from best to worst,

    NordVPN, TorGuard, and Mullvad. You should follow the same steps as the

    1st VPN VM to create the 2nd. Check everything is good and that there are no

    leaks in your connection by navigating to whoer.net and dnsleaktest.com and

                                              Cashout.Guide                21

    conducting tests. Even with webRTC enabled, you should have 0 leaks

    because of the iptables rules.

•   From the 2nd VPN VM, we will send our traffic to our Tor network VM (usually

    called sys-whonix).

•   In sys-whonix, we will edit the torrc configuration file and make sure we are

    using obfs4 bridges to connect to it. This will make much harder for anyone

    snooping on our traffic to see we are using Tor (although I seriously doubt

    anyone would be able to do so if you followed the steps above correctly).

    You can do that by following this tutorial

    (https://www.whonix.org/wiki/Bridges).

•   Now that we have our network completely set up, we will move on to

    actually connecting to our RDP to conduct our work. To do that, simply

    create a new AppVM, name it whatever you so wish, use the Template

    WHONIX-WS for it, give it network access through sys-whonix, and open a

    new Terminal on it. Once you have done that, run the following command on

    that Terminal: sudo apt-get install remmina

•   That command will install a program called “remmina” which will enable us

    to connect to our RDPs anonymously with the Tor network.

•   For the RDP, I recommend you purchase a Windows 7 one from xDedic (if

    you don’t have an account there, send me a message and I will sell you an

    RDP from there, or you can also purchase an invite to the website from me if

    you so prefer, that way you won’t rely on me or anyone else to purchase

    your RDPs, you can simply login the website and purchase them yourself).

    xDedic is the best website for RDPs, and the reason for that is because they

    sell clean hacked RDPs, that belong to an actual real person, with a real

    digital fingerprint, and with a real IP/real location. The reason we want this is

    so that the website we are conducting our work in, doesn’t realize we are a

    fraudster and declines our transaction. I prefer not to use Socks5 as they are

    far from being reliable as RDPs are, and PLEASE, do not use a Socks5 in

    conjunction with one of these RDPs, as that would be dumb, and will mess up

    your entire setup.

•   Once you have all of this setup, all you need to do is pick a website that you

    want to card, get a CVV close to the zip code of your RDP (some websites will

                                             Cashout.Guide                 22

  decline your transaction if you are placing an order too far away from the

  CVVs billing/shipping address) and work your magic! This “magic” will vary

  from website to website, and one thing you need to keep in mind is that

  most websites will require you to call the card holder’s bank using a burner

  spoofed to the card holder’s number to change his billing address. The

  reason for that is because as mentioned previously, websites in Canada,

  United States and United Kingdom, all have AVS systems in place that will

  check your billing address with the card holder’s bank. If you use a shipping

  address that differs from the billing address, especially a shipping address

  too far from the card holder’s address, you will get a declined transaction.

  You could still get approved if the shipping address you are using is not too

  far from the card holder’s billing address (anything 30-50 miles away is

  already too much), but it’s always better to call the bank and do a change of

  billing.

• If you are purchasing anything above $600 dollars, chances are you will need

  to conduct a what is known as an ATO on the card holder’s account. ATO

  stands for Account-Take-Over. This is a process in which you will call the

  bank, change the card holder’s phone number, then wait 5-7 days and call

  again to change his billing address, you can also add a temporary address if

  you prefer, which is much better in my opinion (Bank of America doesn’t

  allow temporary addresses unfortunately, Chase is the best one for this). The

  reason for this is because most websites will require you to put the card

  holder’s billing phone number on check out and for orders above $600, they

  will call the card holder to confirm the transaction. Not to mention that the

  bank may find all of this very suspicious, especially if the card holder hasn’t

  done a purchase as big as that in months and will ring them to confirm. And,

  there is also the possibility of the card holder having what is known as “text

  updates/alerts” for charges that big on his account. All of those things may

  lead to declined transaction, and a burnt card.

• I also recommend you use a .edu, .org or .gov email with the card holder’s

  name, to conduct such high value fraudulent transactions. This will

  significantly lower your fraud score and will help you a lot in getting

  approved.

                                          Cashout.Guide                 23

• Make sure you act like a real shopper. Wait 2-3 days before purchasing and

    during that meantime, put products in your cart, look around the website,

    make it look LEGIT. Make it look like you care about how much you’re

    spending, because people do care about that. If you register an account, and

    then right off the bat purchase a laptop worth $1500, you can’t expect to be

    approved. I will further explain in detail all of this in this guide.

WINDOWS & MAC OS X VIRTUALBOX SETUP

I realize most people will not go as far as the setup above requires them. And

although that is very unfortunate, it is a fact that I can’t neglect. Below I will

outline a good, but much more unsuccessful and unsafe setup. Unfortunately, OS X

and Windows, are both closed-source operating systems, and particularly

Windows, is full of zero-day exploits and vulnerabilities that are easily exploitable

by law enforcement officials. Not to mention these OSs are full of NSA/FBI/CIA

backdoors and are just not safe from a privacy standpoint, proceed with caution

and most importantly, ATTENTION to detail. Do not skip any steps.

Now, when it comes to the Virtual Box setup, what you need to do is first of all,

download Virtual Box obviously (https://www.virtualbox.org/wiki/Downloads),

then download VeraCrypt (https://www.veracrypt.fr/en/Downloads.html) and

create a hidden encrypted volume with at least 30GB of space, then mount that

hidden encrypted volume. Then, download WinISO

(http://www.winiso.com/download.html), and google “WinISO serial number” so

that you are able to complete the next step. Next, download MagicISO

(http://www.magiciso.com/download.htm), get a .iso of Windows 7 and burn it

into a bootable media on a blank CD using WinISO. Then mount the .iso into the

virtual drive using MagicISO.

Then, create a new virtual machine on Virtual Box and name it whatever you so

wish. Go to settings and on “System” use at least 2GB RAM for the base memory.

On boot order use HDD and CD/DVD. Then, go to storage and add your virtual

drive letter where you mounted the .iso on Controller:IDE. On “Network”, choose

                                             Cashout.Guide                 24

NAT and refresh the MAC address (refresh every single time you boot the

Machine). Then, install Windows 7 on the virtual machine.

Once you have done all that, move the .vdi files into the hidden encrypted

VeraCrypt volume. Then, on the Windows 7 virtual machine install TMAC to

change the MAC address every time you connect to the internet

(https://technitium.com/tmac/), CCleaner, and Bleachbit to clean your cookies and

temporary data.

Then every time you start the machine, go to the Windows 7 CMD, and type these

commands:

ipconfig /release

ipconfig /renew

ipconfig /flushdns

Once you have completed all these steps, download the VPN of your choice and

install it on your newly created virtual machine. You can also get another VPN and

install it on your main OS, that way you have 2 VPNs for added security. I

recommend 2 different providers, and make sure you use an anonymous email

that can’t be traced back to you, and only pay with clean BTCs.

From that virtual machine, connect to an RDP by going to the Start menu and

typing “Remote Desktop” in the search box. When “Remote Desktop Connection”

appears in the search results, click on it. Next, enter the IP address of the target

computer and press connect. Enter the login credentials, click OK and you should

be inside the RDP.

Now that you have your OPSEC set up, I will teach you about how to card

successfully.

 

Virtual Carding

As I have mentioned previously in the fraud dictionary section of this guide, virtual

carding is the process of purchasing physical or digital goods online using someone

else’s credit/debit card details. However, there is A LOT more to it. You can’t

simply get someone’s CVV details and go on a shopping spree, that will not work

and will only lead to burnt cards & declined transactions. There are many things

you need to keep in mind and in this chapter I will go into detail on how exactly all

of it works.

The main goal of a carder, is to cheat websites into thinking he’s the legit owner of

a CVV. This is the most important aspect of carding, because if you can’t do that,

nothing else will work. To be able to cheat the website, there are a couple of

things we need to keep in mind.

• We need to use an extra clean hacked residential Windows 7 RDP (available

    on xDedic, again, if you don’t have an account there just send me a message

    and we can work something out). Windows 7 is the 2nd most used operating

    system in existence today, right behind Windows 10 so that is why we are

    using it. We want to appear as generic as possible to the website, and never

    appear to be a “unique” user as that will raise our fraud score. A

    RESIDENTIAL RDP is essential, because it already has a digital fingerprint from

    a legit user, which will tell the website that we are a real person, from a real

    location, with a real computer, and not a fraudster using a proxy server in a

    virtual machine.

• We should either use Firefox or Chrome for fraudulent transactions inside of

    our hacked RDP. The reason for that is because again, we want to appear as

    generic as possible to the website, and those browsers are currently the

    most used browsers in existence. It is important to note that no changes

    should be done to those browsers, and no addons should be installed, you

    should use them AS THEY ARE BY DEFAULT.

                                              Cashout.Guide                 26

• With Firefox or Chrome inside of your RDP, navigate to dnsleaktest.com and

  ipleak.net, then conduct tests to see if your real location is leaking. Then

  navigate to whoer.net and check your anonymity score, it should be 100%.

  Sometimes it won’t be because of the time-zone difference between your IP

  location and the system time, if that happens then simply change the system

  time to match your IP location, and do a re-test, it should then say 100% in

  your score. You should do this every time you wish to conduct a fraudulent

  transaction.

• Now we get a CVV that is close to the CITY and STATE that our RDP is located

1. Example, if we have an RDP located in MIAMI FL, we want a CVV from

  MIAMI FL. The level of the CVV you need to get will depend much on the

  value of the transaction that you want to conduct. A card that would be used

  to purchase movie tickets/food delivery online, is not the same card you

  would use to purchase a $1000 laptop. However, a card that can be used to

  purchase a $1000 laptop, would easily approve a small movie ticket/food

  delivery purchase transaction, but you would never use a card like that for

  such purposes unless you don’t know what you’re doing.

• If you are carding something worth $500 or more, you will need to get a free

  .edu email registered in the name of the CVV holder by navigating to the

  website http://home.cccapply.org and selecting Cuesta College from the

  drop-down menu (this changes from time to time so Cuesta may not work for

  you, if it doesn’t just try other colleges and one of them should eventually

  work). From there you apply to the college, and for the Social Security

  Number (SSN) you navigate to http://fakenamegenerator.com/, select

  MALE/FEMALE and then hit GENERATE. This will generate a new identity,

  from that you just need the SSN which will look something like this 427-70-

  XXXX. Just substitute the XXXX for any numbers and that should do fine. Fill

  out all the rest with the fake info (phone, address, etc…), just provide the

  correct sex. If you have his SSN, then you can use that as well and it will be a

  HUGE plus. For the email, you can use disroot.org, navigate to their website,

  create a new account with the CVV holder’s name and use it for registering

  for the college. You will soon receive on that email your newly created

  @.my.smccd.edu email address details.

                                           Cashout.Guide                27

• If the .edu email method doesn’t seem to be working for you, then you can

  simply card a domain with ipage.com and use a .org email that the domain

  provider will let you generate. You can also generate as many .org emails as

  you wish with your domain, just make the domain name something legit such

  as https://nmnenterprises.org or https://pierceandassociates.com/. To card

  the domain, follow the same steps outlined above and register with the

  domain provider with a yahoo email in the name of the CVV holder.

• Once you got the email ready, then you are finally ready to conduct the

  fraudulent transaction. Navigate to the website you want to card. If you are

  carding something worth $200 or more, then you should first create an

  account on the website using the .edu/.org email, browse the website to look

  like a real buyer, wait 2 days and browse the website during those 2 days for

  at least 30-40 min looking at products, putting stuff in your cart, etc… After

  you have done that, you can go ahead and proceed with the transaction.

• Keep in mind that as I mentioned previously, some websites will not accept

  transactions in which the billing and shipping addresses are too far away

  from each other (30 miles is already too much). If you get a card with a billing

  address less than 30 miles from your drop address, then you are very very

  lucky and you can proceed. If not, you will need to call the bank using a

  spoofed burner number (spoof to the CVV holder’s number) and ask them to

  add a temporary shipping address/add an additional billing address to the

  account. They should be able to do that for you, unless it’s Bank of America,

  I’ve run into problems before doing that with BoA. They will require you to

  change the billing address entirely.

• For the burner phone, it is entirely up to you to either purchase a phone for

  $40 dollars at somewhere like Wal-Mart or go to Amazon and purchase a

  phone like this (https://www.amazon.com/Phone-4-5mm-Ultra-Pocket-

  Black/dp/B00JN82EFO) which you can use for a month, and destroy it

  completely when done with carding for a few websites/CVVs. For the SIM

  card, you can go to T-Mobile and ask them for the $30 monthly plan (make

  sure you show them your phone so that they give you the right SIM card and

  ALWAYS pay with cash, you can even go a step further and use a hoodie

  when going to the store to mitigate the threat of cameras).

                                           Cashout.Guide                28

• To spoof your phone number, you can use the service

    https://www.spoofmyphone.com/ they allow you to pay with BTC and are

    very reliable.

• Before buying your RDP, ALWAYS check its PROXY, RISK, and FRAUD score.

    You can check all of that through the xDedic website (if you don’t have an

    account there contact me and we can work something out).

CVV

There are a lot of websites nowadays on the web that will sell you stolen CVV.

However, the problem with these websites is that they will most of the time, sell

you CVVs that are either dead, or that are complete shit. I know this from my own

personal experience with these websites, so I have completely given up on them.

The only one I can currently recommend under good conscience is Benumb

(https://benumb.store), however, the registration to it is closed at the moment,

and I have spoken to the owner, he is not currently selling registrations, but will

very soon for 200-300 dollars (that money will be added to your balance on the

website). So, if you want to purchase the registration, keep checking the website.

I am an experienced hacker, and I have taken advantage of flaws in website

security systems many times to hack their databases. With that said, I currently

have in my possession over 70k CVV and over 50k dumps for sale from different

online databases. I check my CVVs for validity every single time before sending

them out to my buyers, so you can be safe you will get valid cards from me.

To check out the balance of a card and check its validity, you can simply call the

bank to which the card belongs to using your burner phone. Let’s say it’s Chase,

you call Chase bank and use the automated prompt by typing your CVV number

and its zip code. From there the automated prompt will tell you the balance of the

card, its credit access line, amount in pending transaction authorizations, and

recent transactions. You should take note of the 8 most recent transactions in case

you need it. It is also good to know the CVV holder’s spending patterns so we can

mimic it. This will make things look much less suspicious to the bank.

                                             Cashout.Guide                   29

 

Carding Levels

When it comes to carding, there are 3 different levels to it. They are each outlined

and explained below.

LEVEL 1 CARDING: This is the entry point for most carders, it includes such things

as ordering pizza, movie tickets, and small purchases below $50. This is considered

very easy carding and you will usually just require the CVV details, along with the

full billing address of the CVV.

LEVEL 2 CARDING: This would be intermediate carding, and includes such things as

carding background reports, credit reports, or physical products with a value

below $200. For this you will require the same details as LEVEL 1 CARDING.

However, it will vary depending on the website you are carding. Different websites

have different security measures in place to curb fraudulent transactions and will

require specific strategies.

LEVEL 3 CARDING: This is advanced carding, and not recommended for beginners.

Things that fall under this category are for example, high value physical products

above $400 in value, and everything on high security websites such as Amazon,

Newegg, TigerDirect, etc… All of these websites will require you to perform an

ATO (Account-Take-Over) on the CVV holder’s account. This will require you to

have the CVV details, full billing address, along with the victim’s DOB, MMN, SSN,

and background report. For this it is always good to get as much information as

you can on the victim, as we will have to call the bank and perform changes in the

holder’s account to take over. This will be explained in much detail further in this

guide.

                                              Cashout.Guide                30

 

CVV Levels

As mentioned previously in this guide, different cards are used for different

purposes. You would never use a Signature Visa, with a credit access line of

$30,000 to card movie tickets or pizza. Below I will outline all the card levels in

existence today. It is important to mention, that for high value purchases you

should ALWAYS look for CREDIT CARDS. Debit Cards are not good for making these

high value purchases online. However, they could still have many uses such as

purchasing background reports, credit reports, and all purchases below $200.

CLASSIC – Classic cards are recognized and accepted by a large number of

merchants all over the world, including the Internet. This card is usually used by

students, young couples, or people trying to establish credit. The limits of these

cards are usually around $1000.

GOLD – A premium card used by people around the world. With higher spending

limits and greater purchasing power, the Visa Gold card is the choice of consumers

who want more from their cards. Average limit of this type of card is $3000.

PLATINUM – Platinum is one of the best cards around. Average limit could be

around $8000.

BUSINESS – Very high limits, often around $15,000

CORPORATE – This is used by large corporations. The limits are usually around

$15,000 as well.

SIGNATURE – The 2nd best card around. I’ve gotten many signature cards with a

limit of $30,000.

PREMIER – Same as Signature. Limits are usually $30,000.

                                              Cashout.Guide                    31

INFINITE – This is the absolutely best card around. However, it is incredibly hard to

find. If you do manage to get your hands on one of these, you are very lucky. There

are usually no limits to such cards.

It is important to note that all these numbers are subject to change depending on

the subject’s credit score, history, and spending pattern.

                                             Cashout.Guide                 32

As previously mentioned in this guide, LEVEL 1 CARDING includes things such as

ordering food online, buying movie tickets, and carding products below $50 in

value. In this chapter, I will show you the process I go through when conducting a

level 1 transaction. For this, I will be carding 2 movie tickets on the website

https://www.fandango.com/.

1. First of all, we will head to the Yahoo mail website to create a new email in

     the name of the CVV holder. Please note I am already inside the clean hacked

     Residential RDP close to the CVV holder’s address at this point. And I have

     checked my setup on whoer.net and dnsleaktest.com as instructed (some

     parts of the images have been blurred out to protect my privacy). Zoom in

     the pictures if you need to do so.

                                             Cashout.Guide                33

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2. Now we will head over to the https://www.fandango.com/ website to get

   our tickets. Make sure you “allow location” on the browser. The rest is pretty

   straightforward, just look for tickets for the particular movie that you want

   on the ZIP that you want to watch it at and go to checkout.

                                          Cashout.Guide                 35

3. Once we’re at the checkout, we need to complete the transaction within 7

   minutes (fandango has a timer as you can see on the picture). Make sure you

   DO NOT copy and paste the CVV details, type them like you would as a

   normal buyer. Same for the name, expiration date and all other details. By

   the way, for this specific transaction I used a VISA CLASSIC CREDIT CARD.

                                         Cashout.Guide               36

4. As you can see, my transaction has been successful, and so should yours! If

   you get a declined transaction, you did something wrong. Go back, retrace

   your steps and check where you slipped. If you were successful, have a great

   time at the movies!

                                         Cashout.Guide                37

Now that we have got the basics out of the way, we can move on to LEVEL 2

CARDING, which as mentioned previously involves such things as carding

background reports, credit reports, and physical products in the $100-$200-dollar

range. In this tutorial, I will be demonstrating 2 successful BACKGROUND REPORT

transactions, and a $100-dollar successful transaction at the website

https://www.jcrew.com/. Again, some parts of the images were blurred out to

protect my privacy.

1. We’re going to start with the background report. So, first of all we will check

     our setup by going to whoer.net and dnsleaktest.com and conducting the

     tests as instructed previously.

2. Once that is out of the way, we will navigate to the website we want to card

     the background report in. In my case this website is

     https://www.peoplefinders.com/ and https://www.infotracer.com/. Next,

     we will search for our target’s name and buy his background report.

                                             Cashout.Guide                 38

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1. Now let’s move on to the next successful transaction at the website

   https://jcrew.com/. First, we will navigate to the website and create an

   account there with a @yahoo.com email. Once that is done, we will navigate

   to the account details page and add the victim’s CVV details and billing

   address to the payment page and save it on the account as the default

   payment method. Remember to do all of this and the steps below in your

   actual hacked RDP, or it will not work. These websites log your IP address

   and it will raise your fraud score, leading to a declined transaction if you

   change it constantly or even once.

2. Next, we will look around the website for something we want to purchase.

   We need to act like a real shopper to cheat the website into thinking we are

   a real buyer so we will spend 1-2 hours looking around the website, adding

   things to our cart, removing them, and then we will leave 1-3 products in our

   cart, preferably what we want to purchase and let the account rest for 1 day.

3. In the next day, we will make our purchase. Navigate to the website, look

   around it for around 30 minutes to 1 hour, and then make your purchase,

   just like the picture below. You should have been successful, and this kind of

   transaction will not require the billing address to be the same as the shipping

   as we are not making a purchase of $200+ dollars. NEVER copy and paste the

   CVV details as the website can easily tell you have done that and will raise

   your fraud score. Always type everything like a normal buyer would with a

   CVV on his hand. I do not recommend making your purchases during the

   night or in the AM time unless it is 8AM or later AT THE CARDHOLDER’S

   TIMEZONE, the reason for that is because these fraud systems analyze

   literally everything and people rarely shop during these hours. Also, refrain

   from shopping during the weekend, do it on the WEEK DAYS ONLY (Mon-Fri).

   One little slip up could get you declined. You have to always be ten steps

   ahead of the website fraud systems. And make sure you always choose the

   fastest shipping method available. For this Jcrew order, I chose overnight,

   and it arrived the next day at my drop.

                                           Cashout.Guide                 41

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Now this is where things start to get really interesting, and where the big money

lies in. You ever wanted to card thousands of dollars’ worth of electronics and

resell them for a quick, big profit? With this method this is completely possible,

however that doesn’t necessarily mean it is easy. Account-Take-Over is when a

fraudster poses as a genuine customer, gains complete control of an account and

then makes thousands of dollars in unauthorized transactions, sometimes even

maxing out the account and clearing out all the funds available. Lucky for you, I am

an expert in ATOing accounts and today I will teach you everything there is to

know about this fraud technique.

To even attempt an ATO, you will need to understand a couple of things. First of

all, is NEVER use CVV checkers that charge cards. This will burn cards instantly. I

personally recommend bit2checker.com if you want to check cards. They don’t

charge your cards and are fairly easy to use. They charge $0.01 cents for dead

cards and $0.02 cents for live cards, which is a great price. Alternatively, you can

use try2services.cm which is also a very reliable service. I personally prefer to

simply call the bank myself using a burner phone, spoofed with the CVV holder’s

phone and check the balance, credit access line, recent transactions and more

using the automated prompts. To spoof your phone, simply use

spoofmyphone.com, they are a great service and allow you to pay them in BTC.

Alternatively, you can use the service Many fraudsters used spooftel.com,

however they recently blocked toll-free numbers, so we can’t use them to call

banks anymore.

Any transaction that involves an Account-Take-Over should be considered a LEVEL

3 CARDING transaction. As previously mentioned, these are transactions above

$300 dollars and up in value. Usually below $2000 however, as most cards will get

flagged for transactions above that number regardless of the ATO. You can always

make multiple transactions of $1000-$2000 however with ATOed accounts

through the span of a few days to a few weeks and max out the card.

                                               Cashout.Guide                 45

If you call a bank using your burner and the automated prompt tells you the

account has been closed for security reasons or the system automatically transfers

you to an operator when you type the card number, that means the card is dead

and useless, ditch it and move on. Keep in mind that some banks will require the

victim’s SSN to access the account balance and menu prompt, Chase however does

not have this feature so it is considered the easiest for such a purpose although it

is the hardest to ATO. I recommend that you note down everything the automated

prompt will give you including most importantly, the account balance, credit line

access and recent transactions (up to 10 in case they ask you for it). The below

picture is an example of what you might want to do.

                                             Cashout.Guide                46

Once you have called the bank and checked everything, you should have the

victim’s balance, credit access line and recent transactions. With this information

you know how much you can spend on that card. However, there is still one more

obstacle we need to tackle, this is the fact that most high security websites such as

Newegg, TigerDirect, Neiman Marcus, Stockx, Saks… will refuse to ship to an

address that is not in file with the bank. To solve this, we will take over the victim’s

account (ATO).

To do this, we will call the bank, talk to an operator and first request a change of

the primary phone number. Remember, this will require SOCIAL ENGINEERING,

which is something that requires training and experience. Don’t act nervous, act

like you own the account. Remember you are the account owner, why would you

be nervous? This is your account. Would you ever call your bank and act nervous? I

doubt. To do this, you will need to have the following information from your victim

in hand and preferably memorized.

• Full CVV number, expiration and, CSC code.
• Full billing address
• Date of birth (and don’t forget to write down his age as well)
• Social Security Number
• Mother’s Maiden Name (if you can’t find this, first try his middle name, and if

    that doesn’t work then just try guessing using common last names in the

    background report)

• Background Report
• Closest relatives date of birth (you can get this by carding their background

    reports)

The most commonly asked tokens are MMN, SSN, DOB, billing address and card

details. All the other questions are only available through public records and will

not be asked by the first operator you get, only by the FRAUD DEPARTMENT. The

Fraud Department is a department that you can be transferred to if you answered

any questions wrong from the first operator or if he suspects you are nervous and

conducting an ATO on the account, that’s why it is very important to keep cool.

                                               Cashout.Guide                  47

If you try changing the phone number and the bank asks for a one-time passcode

that will be sent to the cardholder’s phone, tell them you no longer have access to

the primary phone on file with them since it was disconnected recently when you

changed phone carriers. Give them your burner number, receive the text and give

it to them, that should work fine. If the system does not allow them to send a text

to your burner, then they will transfer you to the fraud department. At this point, I

recommend you hang up the phone as soon as they put you on hold, since the

fraud department will most likely not be able to conduct the change on the

account either and they will end up burning the card by telling you they will give

you a call back in 24-48h and they will first try the card holder obviously. Hang up

and let’s try another way.

At this point you have 2 choices. Either conduct a SIM swap on the victim’s phone

number by calling his phone carrier and claiming your SIM was

damaged/stolen/lost and you need to port it to a new phone you just bought with

a new SIM (this will require all the details needed to conduct an ATO as well and if

they ask you for the account PIN just tell them you forgot, which will lead them to

asking you security questions on the account or trying some other way, which

should work fine if you have the required information on your victim). This will

also require a NEW BLANK SIM FROM THE CARDHOLDER’S CARRIER.

Your next option is a little tricky and you will require 2 burner phones. First, you

will call the bank with the first burner and tell them to send the one-time

passcode, however before you tell them to send the passcode you will have to tell

them to hold for 5 minutes while you get your cellphone since you don’t have it

with you at the moment, during that hold call the cardholder with your 2nd burner

number SPOOFED to the bank’s toll free support number (e.g. 1-800-935-9935)

and social engineer him into giving you the one time passcode, you will have to be

fast with this. Below is an example of how the dialogue would play out.

• “Hello there, may I speak with Mr. Jason Bourne please?”
• “Speaking”

                                              Cashout.Guide                 48

• “Hi there, this is James Magnolia calling on behalf of J.P. Morgan Chase Bank

  Fraud Department, we are calling you to conduct an identity verification as

  we have noticed some unusual activity on your account lately, did you call us

  to change your primary billing address on file?”

• “What? NO! I didn’t try to change my address, what is happening??”
• “Okay Mr. Bourne, nothing to worry about, I would like to first apologize to

  you for this inconvenience on behalf of Chase and its partners, but

  apparently someone has tried to impersonate you and change the primary

  billing address on your account on file with us. Would you please verify your

  identity for me by receiving a one-time passcode and telling me what that

  passcode is?”

• “Yes, go ahead”
• “Okay, thank you for your patience and understanding Mr. Bourne, I will

  have to put you on a brief hold while I send you the one-time passcode.

  Please keep in mind Chase will not charge you for the text message, but

  additional charges may be incurred depending on your phone provider.”

• “Okay”
• At this point, put him on “hold”, and get back to your first burner to talk with

  the bank operator again. Tell him okay I have the phone now, you can send

  the text message. He will proceed to send the text message to the victim’s

  phone. Then, you tell him to wait a little bit while you receive the text on

  your cellphone and get back to your 2nd burner where the victim is on hold.

• “Hello there Mr. Bourne, thank you for your patience, I have just sent the

  one time passcode to your phone, please keep in mind the code is only valid

  for 5 minutes.”

• “Okay, I got it, the passcode is 023847027.”
• “Thank you very much Mr. Bourne, give me one second here while I verify

  your identity with that code.”

• Get back to the bank operator, give him the code he told you and there you

  go, you have just changed your phone number on file with the bank. Hang up

  the call and get back to Mr. Bourne.

                                           Cashout.Guide                 49

• “Alright Mr. Bourne, seems like we have you all verified now. Thank you very

    much for your cooperation and again, we are very sorry for this

    inconvenience. Do you have any further questions for me?”

• “No, thank you”
• “Awesome, have a great day Mr. Bourne and thank you for banking with

    Chase”

This dialogue will obviously not go EXACTLY like this, however, if you have all the

victim’s information it should be very easy to social engineer him. You can even

change this up, and create your own method.

Once you have changed the phone number, let the account sit for at least 5 days.

During that time, create an account with the .edu email as instructed previously on

the website that you want to card on your RDP and navigate the website every day

for 30 minutes to 1 hour, look at the products, click on them, add them to cart, ALL

INSIDE THE RDP. Act like a real shopper. Remember, some websites have really

good fraud systems in place and think of literally everything, so you really have to

be smart with this to trick them into thinking you are a legit shopper.

Then you call back the bank and change the billing address on file. You can also

choose to ADD an additional address to the account, it is really up to you. Again, to

change this, have the victim’s most commonly asked tokens in hand (SSN, MMN,

DOB, billing address, and your burner phone number since it is now the primary

one). Once your identity is verified with the tokens and you are inside the account,

tell the operator you have recently moved out of your address and would like to

update it. They will most likely ask you for the one-time passcode again, but this

time this should be a no-brainer since you have the primary phone number on the

account set up to your burner and the text will be sent there. Give them the code

and update the address, simple as that.

Now once you have changed the billing address, wait 1 day and make the purchase

on the website of your choice. Try to keep it under $2000, or the system may flag

it immediately, especially since the cardholder never makes such high value

                                              Cashout.Guide                 50

purchases. Enter all the information correctly, your drop address that is now the

billing address on file with the bank, and your billing phone number that is the

same with the bank as well. Make both shipping and billing addresses the same,

this is CRUCIAL. Triple-check everything for accuracy.

You might be greeted by a Verified by Visa or MasterCard SecureCode prompt,

however this should be very easy to bypass if you have the required information

on the cardholder.

At this point, your order will go through and either one of two things can happen.

1. The order goes through smoothly without any problem, and becomes

     “pending”. You should’ve received an order confirmation email as well.

2. The transaction gets declined and the website says you need to call your

     bank. In this case, call the bank and the automated prompt will act as if the

     card is burnt (transfer you to an operator automatically) and a fraud agent

     will answer. Tell them you authorized the transaction, but is not sure why it

     was declined. If you have ATOed the account correctly, then this should be

     very easy. He may ask you some questions in relation to the victim’s

     background report, but that should be easy to answer as well if you have all

     the required information. When the agent tells you are all good to go, submit

     the order again on the website and this time it should go through.

     REMEMBER TO CALL AS SOON AS YOU GET THE DECLINED TRANSACTION

     OTHERWISE THE BANK WILL RING THE CARDHOLDER AT THE OLD NUMBER

     AND YOUR CARD WILL BE BURNT TO A CRISP!

3. At this point you are all good to go and your order should be in “pending”

     status. You should’ve also received an order confirmation email and will soon

     receive an email that your order has been shipped. SUCCESS!

                                             Cashout.Guide                51

Many beginners and sometimes even advanced fraudsters, go through a

frustrating period in which their transactions constantly get declined. There are

many reasons for that and this section should be very helpful to curb such

mistakes. I have made A LOT of mistakes since starting this fraud journey, so I hope

you can learn from my mistakes and not make them again.

When you place an order of $1000 or more on a website, you need to understand

that A LOT of things take place to verify the authenticity of that transaction.

Merchants are not idiots, they do not want to lose money, and that is why the

biggest ones, with the biggest yearly revenue, have extremely high security

measures in place to curb fraudulent transactions. We need to be aware of such

measures to make sure all of our transactions are successful. Below is a list of the

most common reasons why orders get cancelled.

1. Billing phone number does not match the one on file with the bank. This is

     very common with rookie fraudsters, as they think the website will not check

     that. However, THEY DEFINITELY WILL and if it’s not your burner phone

     number, but the cardholder’s, you might run the risk of them calling the

     cardholder and burning your card. Always remember to first change the

     billing phone number on file with the bank to your burner and use that for

     website purchases, this is CRUCIAL for LEVEL 3 CARDING transactions. If the

     website does end up calling your burner billing phone number, they will

     sometimes ask questions similar to the fraud department on the bank,

     however these are all PUBLIC RECORD questions, which means they will be

     available on the victim’s background report. If you have previously ATOed

     the account, this should be quite easy to bypass. In some rare cases, they

     might make a conference call with you and the bank, and you will be asked

     the usual verification tokens (SSN, MMN, DOB…..).

                                              Cashout.Guide                 52

2. Carding one website and then in the same day carding another one. This is

   another very common mistake committed by not only rookies, but also by

   some veterans of the carding game. This is bad because multiple high value

   transactions in the same day will look suspicious in your account and the

   bank or merchant might flag that and decline your transaction.

3. Carding websites in the cardholder’s time zone from 7PM to 7AM. Very

   common mistake as well, and one that I committed myself when starting out.

   Nobody purchases stuff during the AM hours and so a transaction at that

   time looks highly suspicious not only to the bank, but to the website’s fraud

   systems as well. I recommend only purchasing during the hours of 8AM to

   3PM in the cardholder’s time zone. Anything above that is considered risky

   and not recommended. Also, you do not want a transaction sitting for very

   long on the person’s account, which makes carding in those hours extremely

   bad. You never know how often the cardholder checks his bank statement

   online. I’ve had cards that died within hours and others that lasted months.

   Once the package is shipped, you can go ahead and card another store, no

   need to wait for delivery. Repeat until the card is burnt. Once it is burnt,

   ditch your mail drop and get a new one. NEVER REUTILIZE DROPS FROM

   BURNT CARDS AS THE COPS MAY BE ALERTED.

4. Using an IP address with a high-risk score, or high proxy score to conduct

   the fraudulent transaction. This is quite probably the most common mistake

   of this list. I have lost count of how many people I’ve seen that committed

   this mistake. I have previously explained what these terms mean in the

   FRAUD DICTIONARY in the beginning of this guide, so if you’re not familiar

   with such terms, go back and read again. You need to ALWAYS use THE SAME

   CLEAN, RESIDENTIAL, LOW PROXY AND RISK SCORE IP ADDRESS TO CONDUCT

   YOUR TRANSACTIONS! I personally recommend RDPs over Socks5. Most

   websites can bypass the Socks5 and see your real IP which 100% will lead to

   a declined transaction. This is not possible with RDPs.

                                          Cashout.Guide               53

5. Using Linux or Mac OS X to conduct fraudulent transactions. This is not as

   common as other mistakes, however I have witnessed a lot of times as well

   with my customers. The only operating system that should be used to

   conduct these transactions is Windows 7, 8, 8.1 or 10 RDP. The reason for

   this is because you want to appear to the website to be a legit shopper, with

   a LEGIT COMMONLY USED OS, and not some fraudster using Kali

   Linux/Qubes or OS X, this will make your order get declined instantly. RDPs

   are also great because they won’t leave any trace of the fraudulent activity

   on your actual HOST OS, which will leave any attempt to recover such logs

   useless. You can use them, and once you’re done with them, never use the

   computer again.

6. Using Opera, Internet Explorer, Tor, Brave or any other non-common

   browser to conduct fraudulent transactions. I have seen a lot of people

   commit this mistake, and it is quite common. As previously mentioned, you

   want to appear to be as generic as possible to the website. You do not want

   them to flag you as a unique user and a potential fraudster. Using such

   browsers will cause transactions to be declined and are just not reliable for

   such purposes. Tor and Brave are just completely out of the question and if

   you used such browsers to conduct fraudulent transactions, frankly I feel

   sorry for you. If you want to be successful in this, either use Chrome (best

   option) or Firefox with 0 ADDONS AND 0 MODIFICATIONS.

7. Using a CVV with a balance not high enough to successfully conduct the

   transaction you want. This is something I see a lot of beginners do as well.

   They usually get a CLASSIC Visa, and expect to be able to easily card over

   $1000 in merchandise with that card. This is just not realistic. For that kind of

   transaction, you want ON THE VERY LEAST a Platinum card. Websites will also

   flag high valued transactions with such low limit cards instantly, which will

   lead to declines and headache.

8. Using a shipping address that differs from the CVV’s billing address. This has

   been explained extensively, and you should already know that ANY

   transactions that are considered LEVEL 3 CARDING, will not go through

   without the proper Account-Take-Over and change of billing address to your

   drop.

                                            Cashout.Guide                 54

You should always keep in mind that NO METHOD IS PERFECT, and the website can

cancel your order simply because they do not feel it is safe to process it. Nothing is

perfect, but you ATOed the account correctly, it should be very easy. Remember to

always stay under $2000 per order and ALWAYS choose the fastest shipping

method available. Some say this raises flags, but if you did everything else

correctly, this should be the least of your concerns.

Now I am going to get into the topic of mail drops. This is going to be an extensive

chapter and I will list many methods to properly acquire drops. Mail drops are one

of the most important aspects of your carding setup, because how will you acquire

your carded items if you do not have a safe location to send them to and where

you can later collect them?

This has to be a place that has absolutely no link to your real-life identity and of

which there could be no possible way to be traced back to you or anyone else

related to you. Finding a drop is really simple, and the easiest way to find one is to

just drive around your neighborhood or walk around if you don’t have a car,

looking for new, empty houses for sale where you can ship the goods to. I honestly

recommend you do this in another city at least 10-15 miles away from your home,

as that will place some distance between where you live and your drop. However,

if you do not have a car this could be a real problem, so I recommend you just walk

around the neighborhood if you have this problem and find a house a couple of

blocks away from yours. You can go to zillow.com, craigslist or any other similar

website to find houses around your neighborhood for sale, a lot of them will also

have a sign up so it’s really a no-brainer to find one. You should preferably aim for

a house in which the driver cannot see that the house is empty inside, as that

could lead the package to be returned to sender. Just use your brain and find a

decent house that you think is worth giving it a shot. I have shipped things to

houses that clearly looked empty before with no problem, however I do not

personally recommend this.

                                              Cashout.Guide                 55

Another thing you have to keep in mind is that those houses are usually owned by

someone or a real estate company, and they regularly showcase the house to

potential buyers. Try to monitor the house for one day, just park your car outside

of it and keep watching, to keep track of who goes in and out of that house and at

what times. You don’t want owners or real estate agents seeing a note left on the

door such as “NOT HOME LEAVE PACKAGES BY THE DOOR” as that could lead to

problems (they could contact the police, thinking someone broke in and is living in

the house) and an obvious burnt drop and lost package. Use a tape to glue your

note to the door and do not use actual glue, as that may lead to leaving sticky

paper residue on the door and you don’t want the owner to even wonder why is

that. You want to be as stealthy as possible so as to not burn the drop, only when

the actual card burns. I have had my fair share of mistakes, so learn from them.

You should track the package every day and depending if the package requires a

signature or not you will have to apply different techniques. The first method is to

just act like you are away and leave a note glued to your front door saying

something along the lines of “CURRENTLY AT WORK, PLEASE LEAVE PACKAGES BY

THE FRONT DOOR. TRACKING NRS:, FULL NAME, SIGNATURE. You can also

optionally print the confirmation page and glue that to the note as well just to

make sure. The driver is the one that makes the final decision to leave your

package or not, but usually this is not a problem for UPS when they don’t require a

signature. Leave the note on the door and wait somewhere near the house (this

could be inside your car) for the UPS guy. Once you see him leave the packages,

wait for him to leave and go over there and pick them up and put them in your car.

Next leave the area, open the packages, inspect for any tracking devices and throw

away the packaging somewhere that is not close to your house.

The second method is when a signature is required. This will mean you will have to

meet face-to-face with the driver and sign the package. Remember TO NEVER ACT

NERVOUS OR THEY MIGHT ASK FOR ID. The driver’s job is not to investigate fraud,

but only to make sure the packages are delivered to the right person. When

packages don’t get delivered and a claim is filed with the carrier, it is taken out of

the driver’s own salary, so KEEP THAT IN MIND! You must make him believe the

                                              Cashout.Guide                  56

package is yours. For this, I recommend you have in your hands a print-out of the

order confirmation page and the tracking number open on your smartphone

(OBVIOUSLY USE A VPN, NORDVPN PREFERABLY), and look like you have been

waiting for him. You could do this simply by waiting at the drop, sitting on the

front lawn or something similar. Do not wait in your car and then when he arrives

suddenly come out of the car. That is very very suspicious and will lead him to ask

you for ID.

I also recommend calling the bank’s automated prompt system and checking if the

card is dead prior to showing up at the address. You do not want cops to outsmart

you. When you have the packages, drive to somewhere away from the drop, open

the packages, inspect them for any tracking devices, get rid of the packaging and

shipping label (burn it if you can) and drive home.

If the card is still valid and there was no tracking device on the packaging, you can

keep carding to that drop until the card burns. Get as much out of it as you

possibly can before moving on to another one. Once that is done, NEVER SHOW

YOUR FACE TO THE DROP AGAIN! Below I will list some more methods to acquire

mail drops, you can choose the one you feel most comfortable with.

1. GENERAL DELIVERY: In the United States, you can send a package to a USPS

     office via “General Delivery”. Unfortunately to use this drop method you will

     require a Fake ID as they require one to go pick up the package. There is also

     the downside of cameras. Example of the format to send package to General

     Delivery:

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